对话 Alessandro Barberis Canonico ——VBC 2027 春夏系列,经典焕新与可持续共筑中国市场新篇

拥有 360 余年毛纺传承历史的意大利高端面料世家维达莱 VBC,以奇境衣橱为主题,携 2027 春夏全新面料系列亮相上海。本系列面料以舒适为核心,推出无畏亚麻、凉感织物、亚麻混纺三大系列,从百年档案面料中汲取灵感,通过天然纤维混纺与意大利匠心工艺,兼顾轻盈透气、优雅质感与实用功能,精准适配温暖气候与当代绅士着装需求。

作为全球高端男装面料标杆,VBC 始终坚持 100% 意大利制造与可持续理念,此次参与中国国际纺织面料及辅料博览会,不仅带来全新春夏面料,更传递品牌传承、创新与卓越品质的核心愿景。

本次,中国服饰商情网特别对话维达莱 VBC 常务董事 Alessandro Barberis Canonico,深度解读 2027 春夏系列设计理念、技术创新、可持续实践及中国市场布局。

With a heritage of more than 360 years in fine wool textile manufacturing, Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC), the prestigious Italian luxury fabric house, debuted its Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Shanghai under the theme A Wonderland Wardrobe. Centered on the core concept of comfort, the season presents three key lines: Intrepid Linen, Cool Weave, and Linen and the Gang. Drawing inspiration from the brand’s century-old archival fabrics, VBC blends natural fiber blends with Italian craftsmanship to deliver lightweight breathability, elegant texture, and functional performance, perfectly suiting warm climates and the sartorial needs of the modern gentleman.

As a global benchmark in high-end menswear fabrics, VBC upholds 100% Made-in-Italy production and a strong commitment to sustainability. Its participation in the Intertextile not only showcases the new summer collection but also communicates the brand’s core vision of heritage, innovation, and superior quality.

On this occasion, China Fashion Info.com spoke exclusively with Mr. Alessandro Barberis Canonico, Managing Director of Vitale Barberis Canonico, to gain an in-depth understanding of the SS 2027 collection’s design philosophy, technological innovations, sustainability practices, and strategic layout in the Chinese market.

维达莱 VBC 常务董事,Alessandro Barberis Canonico

2027 春夏新品核心解读

Core Insights into the SS 2027 New Collection

Q:本次维达莱 VBC 携 2027 春夏全新面料系列登陆上海,请先为我们介绍下,本次参展的核心初衷,以及希望向中国市场和消费者传递怎样的品牌理念?

Vitale Barberis Canonico presents its new SS 2027 fabric collection in Shanghai. Could you share the core purpose of your participation in this exhibition, and the brand philosophy you aim to convey to the Chinese market and consumers?

A: 我们参加上海展会,反映了中国市场对维达莱VBC在中长期内具有重要的战略意义。通过2027春夏系列,我们旨在呈现一个清晰且连贯的品牌愿景,即传承、创新与卓越品质的融合。我们寻求传达一种植根于真实性、高品质以及对经典优雅进行当代演绎的品牌哲学。

Our participation in the Shanghai exhibition reflects the strategic relevance in the mid long term of the Chinese market for Vitale Barberis Canonico. Through the SS 2027 collection, we aim to present a clear and consistent vision of the brand, where heritage, innovation, and product excellence converge. We seek to convey a philosophy grounded in authenticity, quality, and a contemporary interpretation of classic elegance. 

Q:本次参展的无畏亚麻、凉感织物、亚麻混纺三大春夏系列,核心以 “舒适” 为设计理念,这一选择是基于怎样的市场趋势和消费者需求考量?

The three key collections on display — INTREPID LINEN, COOL WEAVE and LINEN AND THE GANG — are designed around the core concept of “comfort”. What market trends and consumer needs informed this focus?

A: 对舒适感的强调,源于我们对不断变化的消费者预期的细致观察。当今市场日益渴求能将精致美学与轻盈、透气及穿着便捷性相结合的面料。这一方向使我们能够应对功能性需求和生活方式的变化,特别是在全球变暖背景下针对更温暖气候的需求。

The emphasis on comfort is the result of a careful observation of evolving consumer expectations. Today’s market increasingly demands fabrics that combine refined aesthetics with lightness, breathability, and ease of wear. This direction allows us to respond to both functional needs and lifestyle changes, particularly in warmer climates due also to the global warming.

Q无畏亚麻系列从 1911 年经典面料汲取灵感并运用特殊烧毛工艺,品牌是如何实现历史经典与当代摩登风格的融合的?

The INTREPID LINEN collection draws inspiration from the brand’s classic fabrics dating back to 1911 and adopts a special singeing process. How does the brand blend historical classics with contemporary style?

A: 通过无畏亚麻(INTREPID LINEN)系列,我们重新诠释了追溯至1911年的档案面料,并融入了现代烧毛工艺等先进的精整技术。这种方法使我们在保留原始面料特性的同时,提升其性能并使其符合现代标准。无畏系列将Super 150’s羊毛的丝滑感和穿着体验提升至全新境界,本季更推出结合优质羊毛和亚麻的夏日全新版本。设计灵感源自品牌1911年夏季经典面料,由此诞生带轻微虹光质感、呈现丹宁外观的当代面料,亦是上世纪初flambage rayante面料的现代焕新版本。

With INTREPID LINEN, we have reinterpreted archival fabrics dating back to 1911, integrating them with advanced finishing techniques such as modern singeing processes. This approach enables us to preserve the identity of the original fabric while enhancing its performance and adapting it to contemporary standards. The Intrepid family, which takes the Super 150’s wool to a new level of fluidity and pleasure, expands with a new summer interpretation that combines this finest of wools with linen. Inspired by a volume from summer 1911 from the wool mill’s archives, a contemporary fabric is born with a slightlyiridescent, denim look, a modern evolution of what at the start of the last century was called flambage rayante.

品牌传承与技术创新融合

Integration of Brand Heritage and Technological Innovation

Q:品牌 360 余年毛纺历史中,面料档案库等文化遗产是如何持续赋能当代新品研发的?

With more than 360 years of history in wool textile manufacturing, how do cultural assets such as your fabric archive continue to empower the development of modern products?

A: 我们的面料档案是公司的核心资产。它作为持续的灵感源泉,通过在现代语境下重新诠释纹理、结构和设计元素,支持着新系列的开发。 

Our historical archive represents a fundamental asset for the company. It serves as a continuous source of inspiration, supporting the development of new collections through the reinterpretation of textures, constructions, and design elements in a modern context.

Q:本次春夏系列大量尝试羊毛与亚麻、真丝的天然纤维混纺,是否代表品牌面料研发的新方向,背后有怎样的战略考量?

The SS 2027 collection extensively features natural fiber blends of wool with linen and silk. Does this represent a new direction for the brand’s fabric R&D, and what strategic thinking lies behind it?

A: 引入羊毛与亚麻、真丝结合的混纺面料,反映了我们研发活动的演进之路。这种方法使我们能够从外观和美学角度扩大面料选择,同时保持与我们在天然纤维领域核心专业知识的一致性。

The introduction of blends combining wool with linen and silk reflects an evolutionary path in our research and development activities. This approach allows us to expand the offer of our fabrics from a look and aesthetic point of view while maintaining coherence with our core expertise in natural fibers.

Q:坚持 100% 意大利生产的工艺体系,在 2027 春夏系列的生产中,哪些核心工序保障了产品的高端品质?

The brand upholds a 100% Made-in-Italy production system. Which core processes ensure the premium quality of the SS 2027 collection?

A: 100%意大利制造的生产模式确保了对整个制造过程的全面控制。从原材料选择到纺纱、织造及精整,每个阶段均由内部管理,从而保证了连贯性、可追溯性和最高质量标准。

The 100% Made-in-Italy production model ensures full control over the entire manufacturing process. From raw material selection to spinning, weaving, and finishing, each phase is managed internally, guaranteeing consistency, traceability, and the highest quality standards.

可持续发展实践与落地

Sustainability Practices and Implementation

Q:品牌的 H.O.P.E. 可持续系列、QSE 管理体系,在本次 2027 春夏三大系列的原料、生产环节有哪些具体落地?

How are the brand’s H.O.P.E. collection and QSE management system applied in the raw material selection and production processes of the three SS 2027 collections?

A: 可持续发展贯穿于生产的所有阶段。H.O.P.E.系列反映了我们对负责任材料的承诺,而QSE系统则确保2027春夏系列涉及的所有流程均严格遵守环境、质量和安全标准。 

Sustainability is integrated into all stages of production. The H.O.P.E. project reflects our commitment to responsible materials, while the QSE system ensures strict compliance with environmental, quality, and safety standards across all processes involved in the SS 2027 collection.

Q:原料端的 “羊毛卓越计划” 可持续标准,是否延伸到了本次系列所用的亚麻、真丝等新原料采购中?

Has the sustainable standard of the Wool Excellence Plan for raw materials been extended to the procurement of new materials such as linen and silk used in this collection?

A: 对于亚麻和真丝,我们通过与精心挑选的合作伙伴协作来实现,这些伙伴在可追溯性、环境责任和道德采购方面均符合我们的标准。 

For linen and silk is achieved through collaboration with carefully selected partners who meet our standards in terms of traceability, environmental responsibility, and ethical sourcing.

Q:品牌在低水耗、低污染等绿色生产上的经验,未来将如何进一步应用在新品研发和全球生产中?

How will the brand’s expertise in green production — such as low water consumption and low pollution — be further applied to new product development and global manufacturing in the future?

A: 展望未来,基于我们的经营理念,我们将继续投资于旨在减少耗水量、能源消耗和环境影响的技术与工艺。可持续发展始终是产品开发和工业战略的核心驱动力。 

Looking ahead, thanks to our philosophy we will continue to invest in technologies and processes aimed at reducing water consumption, energy usage, and environmental impact. Sustainability remains a key driver in both product development and industrial strategy.

中国市场布局与未来展望

China Market Strategy and Future Outlook

Q:您如何看待当下中国高端男装面料市场的消费新特征,以及该市场的长期发展潜力?

How do you view the new consumption trends in China’s high-end menswear fabric market, and its long-term growth potential?

A: 中国市场的特点将是日益增长的精致化趋势,以及对品质、工艺和品牌传承不断提升的鉴赏力。同时,市场对创新和功能性表现也将有强劲的需求。 

The Chinese market will be characterized by increasing sophistication and a growing appreciation for quality, craftsmanship, and brand heritage. At the same time, there will be a strong demand for innovation and functional performance.

Q:本次携 2027 春夏系列登陆上海,品牌在深耕中国市场、与本土定制店 / 服装品牌合作上有哪些新规划?

With the launch of the SS 2027 collection in Shanghai, what new plans does the brand have to deepen its presence in the Chinese market and cooperate with local tailors and apparel brands?

A: 加强与当地定制店和时尚品牌的合作是我们战略的核心要素。我们旨在通过高品质的意大利制造面料及专业技术支持我们的合作伙伴,培养长期的合作关系。 

Strengthening collaboration with local tailoring houses and fashion brands is a central element of our strategy. We aim to support our partners through high-quality and Made in Italy fabrics and technical expertise, fostering long-term relationships.

Q:针对中国夏季高温高湿的气候特征,品牌是否会为中国市场量身研发专属面料,未来还有哪些市场动作?

Given the hot and humid summer climate in China, will the brand develop exclusive fabrics tailored for the Chinese market? What other market initiatives are planned for the future?

A: 总体而言,我们已经在开发专门针对中国这种湿热气候的轻质、透气面料。未来,我们将继续优化并扩展这些解决方案,以更好地满足中国市场的特定需求。 

In general we are already developing lightweight and breathable fabrics specifically suited to hot and humid climates as the Chinese one. Going forward, we will continue to refine and expand these solutions to better address the specific needs of the Chinese market.

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